Milano and Environs, Lombardia-Veneto, Italia

My second to last weekend in Europe, I hopped on a Ryan Air flight to northern Italy. My first stop took me to Bergamo, a medium size city in the north Italian region of Lombardy with an exceptionally well-preserved and still walled old town situated in the foothills of the Alps. Despite the industrial zone that surrounds it, the city was spared heavy bombing at the end of the Second World War and retained much of its historic center. Given its size, its architecture, and especially the relatively small number of people that make their way to the heart of the old city center, my visit to Bergamo was a relaxing surprise and a worthwhile diversion.

The following day, I went to Sirmione, a small town built at the end of a long peninsula jutting into the Lago di Garda, Italy’s largest alpine lake. This alpine riviera, like the other cities that dot the coastline of the lake plays host to a mix of locals and northern Europeans in search of a good tan. Aside from an awesome medieval fortress, complete with a drawbridge guarding entry to the town, the peninsula also contains the ruins of a once immense Roman bath complex that made use of the medicinal qualities of natural hot springs found in this part of the lake and more gelato vendors than I could count.

In the afternoon, I made it to Verona in the neighboring region of Veneto. Once a major Roman town, at Verona’s heart still stands an impressive coliseum. Also of interest for an architecture geek like myself were the city’s Romanesque churches; much older than any of the parishes in Seville. Like a good Shakespeare fan, I visited to the Casa di Giulietta where I stumbled across an Italian language reenactment of the famous balcony scene. My final stop took me to the old fortress aside the river.

On Sunday, I made it to Milan, Lombardy’s capital. Though I was only able to see part of the city, I did make it to the top of the Cathedral and to several other historical sites. For instance, I had a you-know-you-are-a-historian-when moment at the tomb of Saint Ambrose thanks to having read and taught the Confession now more times than I can remember. Certain readers, you know who you are, will be surprised to hear that I never once stopped into a single clothing store in this fashion crazy town or its famous opera house, La Scala. I’m happy to say there is far more to Milan than merely its catwalks, and plenty of reasons to return.

Check out the pics below.

Bergamo

Sirmione

Verona

Milano

Cádiz, Andalucía

The Atlantic port of Cádiz is situated two hours south of Seville by train on a narrow strip of peninsula that juts into the Atlantic. Over the centuries, the city has gone by several names: Gadir under the Phoenicians, Gades under Romans, Qādis the the Moors. Under the Catholic monarchs, the port served as a major naval center and the base of operations for the Spanish Amada. Indeed, the forts protecting the beaches below were built after a succesful raid by Sir Francis Drake in the 1500s. In the 1700s, as the Guadalquivir River began to silt up, Seville lost its status as the official port of trade with the New World. Cádiz entered its most splendid phase as the wealth of the Crown and prosperous merchant descended on the city. Given this fact, it is perhaps not surprising that the city has a very colonial feel, reminiscent of the Caribbean in many respects.

The peninsula was the only part of Spain that Napoleon's armies failed to conquer. It was here in 1812 that Spain promulgated it first constitution, the so-called Constitution of Cádiz, which served as the basis for constitutions throughout Latin America. To commemorate this event and the looming bicentennial, the city is gearing-up to fulfill its role as the Ibero-American Capital of Culture in 2012.

This trip marked the first of several goodbyes. I managed to catch a nasty sunburn at the beach that required a trip to the emergency room a few days later. Too much fun can be dangerous!

La Playa de la Caleta, the setting "Cuban scenes" for Die Another Day.
The fortified entrance to the old city.

Mérida and Cáceres, Extremadura

A short drive north of Seville lies the autonomous community of Extremadura. Somewhat off the beaten tourist path, the region has several places of interest.

Mérida

Originally the Roman colony of Augusta Emerita, Mérida has probably some of the finest Roman ruins is all of Spain, including the remains of a massive dramatic theater, a Colosseum-like amphitheater, two aqueducts, temples, roads, and the old city walls. It is also home to the National Museum of Roman Art.

Cáceres

Though once the Roman city of Norba Caesarina, few Roman ruins remain in Cáceres. Today the city hosts one of the best preserved old centers in all of Spain, designated a World Heritage Site in the 1980s. The city museum also houses a terrific collection of prehistoric and Visigothic art and the remains of a Moorish cistern, shown here with a random art exhibit involving slides projected against the arches of the room and the water below - a bit random in my opinion.